tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-29684229110729728582024-03-19T23:54:54.943-07:00The Devil's WorkshopThe Devil's Workshop is a a Halloween prop how-to blog with an emphasis on painting,sculpting, and how to photograph your creations. Posts include new and classic re-made how-tos with video or photographic step by step instructions. Brought to you by hauntforum.com member Devils Chariot.Devils Chariothttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14326719836170942733noreply@blogger.comBlogger38125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2968422911072972858.post-14254232767209977372014-09-26T14:48:00.001-07:002014-09-26T14:48:54.496-07:00Cauldron Creep 3.0 - Frame and Neck Motor DiagramsOne of the biggest improvements over the Cauldron Creep 1.0 was the new neck mechanism I created in Cauldron Creep 2.0. The new design is easy to build, fast to assemble and doesn't requires a giant hump to hide. I know, I KNOW...the hump is part of the charm, but I like medium sized humps.<br />
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The Frame</h3>
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The frame is based of measurements from a Bucky 4th quality skeleton. Why is it important to mention it is 4th quality? 4th quality means you will have warped bones, poorly installed hardware, and who knows what else and this make them all kinda of unique in a way the would infuriate an engineer. So use the measurements for the legs and arm as guidelines, maybe add and inch or two for good measure then cut down as you fit the bones to the frame. (fitting bones to the frames will be in another post).<br />
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It's hard to see the details here so make sure to download the Cauldron Creep 3.0 How-To PDF.<br />
The How-to is being updated as new sections are added, such as how to wire the led eyes, make costume, attach bones, etc. The link to the <a href="http://www.hellizondohaunt.com/Files/Cauldron%20Creep%203.0%20How-To_updated_9-25.pdf">latest PDF </a>of the How-To can be found <a href="http://www.hellizondohaunt.com/Files/Cauldron%20Creep%203.0%20How-To_updated_9-25.pdf">here</a>.<br />
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So here is an overview of what a cauldron creep looks like naked:<br />
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Neck Motor Mechanism</h3>
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These plans are based on my current cauldron creeps version 2.0 and 3.0. Since I first made the Cauldron Creep in 2008 a few things have changed.<br />
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Firstly, the once cheap and widely available 6rpm window crank motors have become rare and pricey (up to $50). There is a substitute motor listed in the how-to parts list. This is a small geared motor that runs off of AC current. I have heard you can find DC current version of it, and if you can I recommend it. DC is much friendlier to beginners and hobbyist because the voltage are rarely high enough to be dangerous.<br />
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Secondly, the mechanism now is more compact and requires less bar stock (which is pricey). It is also easier to make and assemble. It doesn't require as large a back hump to operate.<br />
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The wood block is used as a mounting base for the motor as the mounting points on the motor didn't allow it to be aligned the frame centerline if mounted to the PVC pipe. It also creates a stand off which helps get the motor more to the center. Depending on what motor you end up using and the fittings associated with it you be able to figure out your own stand off and alignment needs.<br />
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You'll also see I used a 4 inch KO Test plug as part of the mechanism. I used it thinking it would reduce snagging or pinching. I recommend using a 2.5" to 3" piece of bars tock with one hole drilled and tapped if possible where the motor connects. Make sure the rotation of the motor tightens the threads as it turns. If you can't reverse the motor you'll have to mount it on the opposite side so it that it tightens threads instead of loosening them as it turns.<br />
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Here is a preview of what you'll find in the PDF.<br />
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This is a schematic of the neck motor assembly:<br />
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And the exploded view:</div>
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And the side view or the neck mechanism:</div>
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And finally a close up of the neck mechanism details:</div>
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<br />Devils Chariothttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14326719836170942733noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2968422911072972858.post-77006449561945327192014-09-17T16:38:00.000-07:002014-09-26T14:49:50.304-07:00Cauldron Creep 3.0 - Cauldron Diagrams<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">It's been hectic for the last few months and it's only going to get worse so I am trying to squeeze this into one afternoon.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">I took pictures and measurements the last few times I made a cauldron creep. My creeps have been based off of the dimensions of the "<a href="http://www.skeleton-factory.com/budget-bucky-skeleton-4th-quality-56-tall-without-stand-c-100001" target="_blank">Bucky</a>" anatomical skeleton. If you have a costco/walgreens posable skeleton you have to make adjustments for the length to arms legs and torso height.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">What I have managed to assemble here is the diagrams I had made for the neck mechanism and cauldron motor.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">I tried to make them clear but you know how sometime you either over think it or because you know the subject so well you skip over important things. If you have question I'll try to answer them.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Here is the parts list for the cauldron motor assembly:</span></div>
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<span id="docs-internal-guid-540bde4b-85b9-dfe1-a576-3095c5e997cc"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span style="vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">10” to 12” section of 3/8 in. W x 1/2 in. H Aluminum C-Channel with 1/16 in. Thick</span></span></span></div>
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<span id="docs-internal-guid-540bde4b-85b9-dfe1-a576-3095c5e997cc"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><a href="http://www.homedepot.com/p/Crown-Bolt-3-8-in-W-x-1-2-in-H-x-96-in-L-Aluminum-C-Channel-with-1-16-in-Thick-96390/202183482" style="text-decoration: none;"><span style="color: #1155cc; text-decoration: underline; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Home Depot Model # 96390 </span><span style="color: #1155cc; text-decoration: underline; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span></span></a></span></span></div>
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<span id="docs-internal-guid-540bde4b-85b9-dfe1-a576-3095c5e997cc"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span style="vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">2” to 3” PCV end cap</span></span></span></div>
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<span id="docs-internal-guid-540bde4b-85b9-dfe1-a576-3095c5e997cc"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span style="vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">2 1” x 1.5” x 3” length of oak, walnut, or other hardwood</span></span></span></div>
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<span style="vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">2 1” x 1.5” x 2.5” length of oak, walnut, or other hardwood</span></div>
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<span style="vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">12” to 18” diameter circle of wood, mdf, or particle board</span></div>
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<span style="vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Plumbers Tape 3/4 in. Galvanized Steel Hanger Strap</span></div>
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<a href="http://www.homedepot.com/p/Oatey-3-4-in-x-25-ft-Galvanized-Steel-Hanger-Strap-339292/100344678" style="text-decoration: none;"><span style="color: #1155cc; text-decoration: underline; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Home Depot Model # 339292 </span><span style="color: #1155cc; text-decoration: underline; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span></span></a></div>
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<span style="vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Monsterguts.com </span><a href="http://monsterguts.com/index.php?act=viewProd&productId=4" style="text-decoration: none;"><span style="color: #1155cc; text-decoration: underline; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Wiper Motor </span></a><span style="vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">(or similar)</span></div>
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<span style="vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Monsterguts.com </span><a href="http://monsterguts.com/index.php?act=viewProd&productId=305" style="text-decoration: none;"><span style="color: #1155cc; text-decoration: underline; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">DC Motor/ LED Light Dimmer</span></a><span style="vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"> (option 1)</span></div>
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<span style="vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">ATX power supply from computer (option 2)</span></div>
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<span style="vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">1 ¼” drywall or wood screws</span></div>
<span style="vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">3” drywall or wood screws</span></span></span></div>
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<span style="vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Here are the diagrams high-res and easier to read tehn screenshots on a blog:</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span style="white-space: pre-wrap;"><a href="http://www.hellizondohaunt.com/Files/Cauldron%20Creep%203.0%20How-To_updated_9-25.pdf" target="_blank">High-Res PDF of Cauldron Diagrams Link</a></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">You will also want to learn how to find the center of a circle <a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wA3GMqeyJyk" target="_blank">here</a> or <a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7kMFjXtAWAY" target="_blank">here</a>.</span></div>
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The motor assembly in the cauldron. It consist of a windshield wiper motor, using the low power inputs from a 5.5v power source ( I use an ATX power supply from an old PC). This drives a piece of 3/8" U channel aluminum with a 2" PVC end cap bolted to the end. This is a cup that the stirring rod rest inside of. The stick is not attached to the motor base. To ensured that the stick doesn't bind while turning the PVC cap is filled with hot glue or a round insert of cardboard is placed inside. Sharpening the end of the stirring stick to a dull point will allow it to turn fore freely as well.</div>
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To make modifying or servicing the motor assembly or cauldron easier I have created a sandwich style construction. The motor is attached to a round cut out that rest inside the cauldron. It screws or bolts through the cauldron itself into a base underneath which has an "H" shaped riser to clear the ground and allow a pipe for fog and electronics and lights underneath.</div>
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Here you can see in pink that sliding rail system i devised for adjusting the creep in relation to the cauldron. It seems in practice you might want to make it longer and cut down to size instead of coming up short.</div>
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Again I'm short on time for blogging but I can answer questions so leave them in the comments.</div>
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I'll be working on the neck mechanism and update as soon as I can.</div>
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Devils Chariothttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14326719836170942733noreply@blogger.com5tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2968422911072972858.post-4680918449468783652014-06-19T13:34:00.000-07:002014-09-26T14:54:07.153-07:00Cauldron Creep 3.0 How To - Parts List<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiJdr6IwWGn_ds9rFVltEmVX45UmrB1xYvfOQ6kVwvg4ZyzaZ5ZSIsn6oQUDfKdAoHCQwZUTNgo5-xaJAhd0qaW-LQ9S6ivYUi7dQgslw4qJN752HSYJZV_C1mmqk3HsGonV-wzGt-oYR4/s1600/rec+creep.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiJdr6IwWGn_ds9rFVltEmVX45UmrB1xYvfOQ6kVwvg4ZyzaZ5ZSIsn6oQUDfKdAoHCQwZUTNgo5-xaJAhd0qaW-LQ9S6ivYUi7dQgslw4qJN752HSYJZV_C1mmqk3HsGonV-wzGt-oYR4/s1600/rec+creep.jpg" height="213" width="320" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">If I have sit down and do a cauldron creep how to all at once I am never going to get it done. Too Many other things I have committed to already so I keep putting it off. I know people want to get started on their Cauldron Creep projects so I am going to post this how to in installments.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span style="color: lime;">Update:</span> Download the latest <a href="http://www.hellizondohaunt.com/Files/Cauldron%20Creep%203.0%20How-To_updated_9-25.pdf">Cauldron Creep 3.0 How-To here</a>.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">This is as complete as I can make. You may need a few extras of some bolts, nuts, screws, but this is 99% complete. The PVC lengths here are based on my cauldron creep revison in 2013 which roughly match the dimensions of a "Bucky" skeleton. From The SoCal Valley Haunters Group presentation in March 2014:</span><br />
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<span style="background-color: transparent; font-size: 13px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Parts list:</span></span></div>
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<span style="background-color: transparent; font-size: 13px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: bold; text-decoration: underline; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Stirring Assembly</span></span></div>
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<span style="background-color: transparent; font-size: 13px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">10” to 12” section of 3/8 in. W x 1/2 in. H Aluminum C-Channel with 1/16 in. Thick</span></span></div>
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<a href="http://www.homedepot.com/p/Crown-Bolt-3-8-in-W-x-1-2-in-H-x-96-in-L-Aluminum-C-Channel-with-1-16-in-Thick-96390/202183482" style="text-decoration: none;"><span style="color: black; font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span style="background-color: transparent; font-size: 13px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: underline; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Home Depot Model # 96390 </span><span style="background-color: transparent; font-size: 13px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: underline; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span></span></span></a></div>
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<span style="background-color: transparent; font-size: 13px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">2” to 3” PCV end cap</span></span></div>
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<span style="background-color: transparent; font-size: 13px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">2 1” x 1.5” x 3” length of oak, walnut, or other hardwood</span></span></div>
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<span style="background-color: transparent; font-size: 13px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">2 1” x 1.5” x 2.5” length of oak, walnut, or other hardwood</span></span></div>
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<span style="background-color: transparent; font-size: 13px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">12” to 18” diameter circle of wood, mdf, or particle board</span></span></div>
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<span style="background-color: transparent; font-size: 13px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Plumbers Tape 3/4 in. Galvanized Steel Hanger Strap</span></span></div>
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<a href="http://www.homedepot.com/p/Oatey-3-4-in-x-25-ft-Galvanized-Steel-Hanger-Strap-339292/100344678" style="text-decoration: none;"><span style="color: black; font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span style="background-color: transparent; font-size: 13px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: underline; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Home Depot Model # 339292 </span><span style="background-color: transparent; font-size: 13px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: underline; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span></span></span></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span style="background-color: transparent; font-size: 13px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Monsterguts.com </span><a href="http://monsterguts.com/index.php?act=viewProd&productId=4" style="text-decoration: none;"><span style="background-color: transparent; font-size: 13px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: underline; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Wiper Motor </span></a><span style="background-color: transparent; font-size: 13px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">(or similar)</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span style="background-color: transparent; font-size: 13px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Monsterguts.com </span><a href="http://monsterguts.com/index.php?act=viewProd&productId=305" style="text-decoration: none;"><span style="background-color: transparent; font-size: 13px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: underline; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">DC Motor/ LED Light Dimmer</span></a><span style="background-color: transparent; font-size: 13px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"> (option 1)</span></span></div>
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<span style="background-color: transparent; font-size: 13px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">ATX power supply from computer (option 2)</span></span></div>
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<span style="background-color: transparent; font-size: 13px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">1 ¼” drywall or wood screws</span></span></div>
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<span style="background-color: transparent; font-size: 13px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">3” drywall or wood screws</span></span></div>
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<span style="background-color: transparent; font-size: 13px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: bold; text-decoration: underline; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Cauldron Creep Body</span></span></div>
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<span style="background-color: transparent; font-size: 13px; font-style: italic; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Neck Mechanism</span></span></div>
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<span style="background-color: transparent; font-size: 13px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Locktite Thread Adhesive</span></span></div>
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<span style="background-color: transparent; font-size: 13px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">6 ¼” nuts</span></span></div>
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<span style="background-color: transparent; font-size: 13px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">1 ¾ by ¼” bolt (neck assembly)</span></span></div>
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<span style="background-color: transparent; font-size: 13px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">1” by ¼ bolt (neck motor)</span></span></div>
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<span style="background-color: transparent; font-size: 13px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">2 ¼” washers</span></span></div>
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<span style="background-color: transparent; font-size: 13px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">4 2” x 10-32 bolts</span></span></div>
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<span style="background-color: transparent; font-size: 13px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">2 1 ½” x 10-32 bolts</span></span></div>
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<span style="background-color: transparent; font-size: 13px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">16 10-32 nuts</span></span></div>
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<span style="background-color: transparent; font-size: 13px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">4’ KO Test Cap (or 4” circle of rigid material 1/16th to 1/8th thick, ABS plastic, Metal, etc)</span></span></div>
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<span style="background-color: transparent; font-size: 13px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">9” Schedule 40 PVC ½ ID pipe : one 7” section, two 1” sections</span></span></div>
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<span style="background-color: transparent; font-size: 13px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">1 Schedule 40 PVC ½”ID 4 way Cross</span></span></div>
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<span style="background-color: transparent; font-size: 13px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">2 Schedule 40 PVC ½”ID 45˚ Elbow</span></span></div>
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<span style="background-color: transparent; font-size: 13px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">5.5 “ section of 3/4 in Aluminum Flat Bar Stock with 1/8 in. thickness</span></span></div>
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<a href="http://www.homedepot.com/p/Crown-Bolt-3-4-in-x-48-in-Aluminum-Flat-Bar-with-1-8-in-Thick-44650/100337842" style="text-decoration: none;"><span style="background-color: transparent; font-size: 13px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: underline; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><span style="color: black; font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Home Depot Model # 44650 </span></span></a></div>
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<span style="background-color: transparent; font-size: 13px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">1” x 1.5” x 7.75” length of oak, walnut, or other hardwood (also used in stirring mechanism)</span></span></div>
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<span style="background-color: transparent; font-size: 13px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">2001-2008 Dodge Chrysler Heater And A/C Blend Door Actuator 12 volt 5rpm DC motor (now $25-$35 on ebay)</span></span></h3>
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<span style="background-color: transparent; font-size: 13px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Robust AC Synchronous Motor 110V AC 5/6RPM Geared Motor CW/CCW Torque 4kg (about $5 on ebay)</span></span></div>
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<span style="background-color: transparent; font-size: 13px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">1 Metric M4 threaded bolt for the AC Sync motor option</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span style="background-color: transparent; font-size: 13px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">2 </span><a href="http://monsterguts.com/index.php?act=viewProd&productId=41" style="text-decoration: none;"><span style="background-color: transparent; font-size: 13px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: underline; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Eye Ball blanks</span></a><span style="background-color: transparent; font-size: 13px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"> from Monsterguts.com or two roll-on deoderant balls from packaging.</span></span></div>
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<span style="background-color: transparent; font-size: 13px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">2 Common Anode RGB LEDs Radio Shack SKU NUMBER:12760028</span></span></div>
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<span style="background-color: transparent; font-size: 13px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">3 3 pin mini toggle switches</span></span></div>
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<span style="background-color: transparent; font-size: 13px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Electrical wire , red, black, and third color (I use green in my how-to)</span></span></div>
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<span style="background-color: transparent; font-size: 13px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">thin sheet of plastic or metal (a grocery club card works)</span></span></div>
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<span style="background-color: transparent; font-size: 13px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">heat shrink tubing or black electrical tape</span></span></div>
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<span style="background-color: transparent; font-size: 13px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Schedule 40 PVC ½”ID coupling</span></span></div>
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<span style="background-color: transparent; font-size: 13px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Gorilla Glue (must be gorilla glue, which is urethane expanding adhesive)</span></span></div>
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<span style="background-color: transparent; font-size: 13px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Plumbers/Epoxy putty</span></span></div>
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<span style="background-color: transparent; font-size: 13px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: bold; text-decoration: underline; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Body and PVC Frame</span></span></div>
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<span style="background-color: transparent; font-size: 13px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Schedule 40 PVC ½”ID pipe through out</span></span></div>
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<span style="background-color: transparent; font-size: 13px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">2 23” lengths for the spine(s)</span></span></div>
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<span style="background-color: transparent; font-size: 13px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">2 5.5” length for shoulder </span></span></div>
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<span style="background-color: transparent; font-size: 13px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">2 5.5” length for pelvis </span></span></div>
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<span style="background-color: transparent; font-size: 13px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">4 1” sections to connect legs and arms to torso</span></span></div>
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<span style="background-color: transparent; font-size: 13px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">2 10.5” sections for upper arms</span></span></div>
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<span style="background-color: transparent; font-size: 13px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">2 11.5” sections for forearms</span></span></div>
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<span style="background-color: transparent; font-size: 13px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">2 28” sections for feet</span></span></div>
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<span style="background-color: transparent; font-size: 13px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">6 T connectors</span></span></div>
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<span style="background-color: transparent; font-size: 13px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">5 90˚ elbows</span></span></div>
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<span style="background-color: transparent; font-size: 13px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">3 45˚ elbows</span></span></div>
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<span style="background-color: transparent; font-size: 13px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"> 1 in. x 2 ft. x 10 ft. Poultry Netting</span></span></div>
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<a href="http://www.homedepot.com/p/Unbranded-1-in-x-2-ft-x-10-ft-Poultry-Netting-308400HD/204331887" style="text-decoration: none;"><span style="color: black; font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span style="background-color: transparent; font-size: 13px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: underline; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Home Depot Model # 308400HD </span><span style="background-color: transparent; font-size: 13px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span></span></span></a></div>
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<span style="background-color: transparent; font-size: 13px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">1 ¼” drywall or wood screws</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span style="background-color: transparent; font-size: 13px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Weed Shield Landscape fabric from </span><a href="http://www.biglots.com/p/weed-shield-landscape-fabric" style="text-decoration: none;"><span style="background-color: transparent; font-size: 13px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: underline; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Big Lots</span></a><span style="background-color: transparent; font-size: 13px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"> (it’s terrible for gardening but great for costumes)</span></span></div>
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<span style="background-color: transparent; font-size: 13px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">spray adhesive</span></span></div>
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<span style="background-color: transparent; font-size: 13px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">3 Size #2 ball bear cross lock fishing swivel ( for marionette arm at elbow and wrist joints)</span></span></div>
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<span style="background-color: transparent; font-size: 13px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><b><u><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Tools Needed:</span></u></b></span></div>
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<span style="background-color: transparent; font-size: 13px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Wire brush</span></span></div>
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<span style="background-color: transparent; font-size: 13px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Hot glue gun</span></span></div>
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<span style="background-color: transparent; font-size: 13px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Cordless drill</span></span></div>
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<span style="background-color: transparent; font-size: 13px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Drill bits</span></span></div>
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<span style="background-color: transparent; font-size: 13px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">⅞ Paddle Bit</span></span></div>
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<span style="background-color: transparent; font-size: 13px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Driver bits</span></span></div>
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<span style="background-color: transparent; font-size: 13px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">PVC cutter or saw</span></span></div>
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<span style="background-color: transparent; font-size: 13px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Soldering iron and solder</span></span></div>
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<span style="background-color: transparent; font-size: 13px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Socket Wrench set (including 10 mm socket)</span></span></div>
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<span style="background-color: transparent; font-size: 13px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Wire cutters/strippers</span></span></div>
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<span style="background-color: transparent; font-size: 13px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">dremel with sanding drum</span></span></div>
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<span style="color: #f3f3f3; font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span>Devils Chariothttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14326719836170942733noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2968422911072972858.post-81314040034907882962014-02-28T14:54:00.000-08:002014-02-28T14:54:20.301-08:00Creative Influences - The Haunters Part 2 - Krough<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<a href="http://www.grimvisions.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/09/lo-pan-220rzfull.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://www.grimvisions.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/09/lo-pan-220rzfull.jpg" height="320" width="233" /> </a></div>
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Krough from <a href="http://hauntforum.com/">hauntforum.com</a> or Kevin Rough of <a href="http://grimvisions.com/">grimvisions.com</a> in the real world was one of the haunters who inspired me most when I was starting out. His approach to prop making was haunt as fine art (in my observation). He wasn't just trying to fill the yard. He took paper clay and paint and monster mud and made carefully crafted monsters. Above is Lo Pan a brilliant monster mud creation that won the Monster Mud Mayhem contest on Haunt Forum in 2007. What makes this prop great is that is is a prop and a small set. This starts to create a small world around the prop with it's own mood and sense of location (is he down on the docks by the waters edge or sitting on a pile of coffins playing a farewell tune for the dead?). I have tried to incorporate this into my haunt by building sets around my props like the Carver Creep form 2009:<br />
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And now for the prop porn. Enjoy!<br />
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<a href="http://www.grimvisions.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/09/Grimvisions_Scarecrow_2008_by_Grimvisions.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://www.grimvisions.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/09/Grimvisions_Scarecrow_2008_by_Grimvisions.jpg" height="320" width="257" /></a></div>
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<br />Devils Chariothttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14326719836170942733noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2968422911072972858.post-87346303173329964762014-02-27T11:33:00.002-08:002014-02-27T11:33:58.178-08:00Creative Influences - The Haunters Part 1 - DeadSpiderI started looking at DIY Halloween props back in 2004. I was living in a tiny apartment by myself and so I never built anything, but I kept looking every year in the fall. I eventually found <a href="http://hauntforum.com/">hauntforum.com</a> and that's when I started to get the worm. This is where I found the haunters that inspired me to start creating. I was going to list them all in this blog but after the first haunter I realized I will have to do one at a time.<br />
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Dead Spider was one of the first home haunters who really inspired me. I loved her work. It was made from simple materials like paper clay and mache but had such a sophisticated and finished look. Angie's props are so well detailed, from hair and costume to paint and accessories. However, this one is my favorite.<br />
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Hemlock Dench was made for the Hauntforum $20 dollar prop contest in 2007 (also won 1st place).<br />
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I loved this prop so much that I can't help but think my entry in the 2008 $20 prop contest was influenced a bit. Wow, that picture might be too colorful.<br />
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DeadSpider has been participating in the <a href="http://www.frightfest-bc.com/Gatherings.html" target="_blank">Fright Fest BC event </a><em><a href="http://www.frightfest-bc.com/Gatherings.html" target="_blank">Halloween in August</a> </em>. The pictures she takes and post on Flickr are awesome. Go check them out.<br />
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<a href="https://secure.flickr.com/photos/deadspider/sets/72157631195496232/" target="_blank">FrightFest BC 2012 </a><br />
<a href="https://secure.flickr.com/photos/deadspider/sets/72157627468060696/" target="_blank">FrightFest BC 2011</a><br />
<a href="https://secure.flickr.com/photos/deadspider/sets/72157624740823136/" target="_blank">FrightFest BC 2010</a><br />
<a href="https://secure.flickr.com/photos/deadspider/sets/72157622078387294/" target="_blank">FrightFest BC 2009 </a><br />
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She also has a great <a href="https://www.etsy.com/shop/deadspider" target="_blank">etsy shop</a> where you can buy <a href="https://www.etsy.com/transaction/121669918?" target="_blank">baby dragons</a>, <a href="https://www.etsy.com/transaction/98489830?" target="_blank">potion bottles</a>, and <a href="https://www.etsy.com/transaction/96318407?" target="_blank">other cool stuff</a>.<br />
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I'm gonna stop talking and just post some of her prop porn. Enjoy!<br />
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<br />Devils Chariothttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14326719836170942733noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2968422911072972858.post-13144184945824355202014-02-26T22:48:00.000-08:002014-02-26T22:48:12.015-08:00Creative Influences - Tracking a Hero<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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I built this guy in the summer of 2013. Named " The Watcher" he was the first part of the facless dead motif I had going in our new haunt theme The Witches of ScabTree Hollow. I got a lot of comments from people saying they liked him and that he reminded them of something from a Guillermo Del Toro movie. I don't at all disagree with that. In fact I bet you are thinking of this guy from Hellboy 2:<br />
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Which some of you will know looks like this guy:<br />
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Now there is a reason for this. This guy is a Wayne Barlowe creation. Wayne Barlowe works with Guillermo Del Toro. A lot of artists with Guillermo Del Toro. What might start as a sketch by Barlowe will get sculpted by someone else, that will get revised by Del Toro and maybe the digital art team, and then changed for executives and so on. So what you see in the final movie is the collaboration, sometimes as a team effort, sometimes it's a game of telephone.<br />
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You can see the influence of Barlowe's Inferno and Brushfire images in The Watcher. The cryptogram on his face in influenced by Barlowe's runes which you can see in the above picture. The faceless look of The Watcher is most influenced by Alien creator H.R Giger.<br />
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You can see in the final Watcher he has a new head with no cryptogram. It's most like Giger's Alien. My favorite monster of all time. Giger's work in fact set the course of my life. It made me stop caring about cars, and clothes, and haircuts, and being cool. In a moment all I wanted to do with my life was make art. Haunting is the latest incarnation of my creative output but it's still inspired by the artists that influenced me so much when I was teenager.<br />
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Of course my first favorite monster was this guy from A Christmas Carol with George C. Scott:<br />
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So you take all of these influences, Giger, Barlowe, and the Ghost of Xmas Future and that how I came up with The Watcher. The arm movement is directly inspired by the reaper in the Christmas Carol. I still get goosebumps when this guy appears before Scrooge. <br />
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Guillermo Del Toro is a lucky guy who gets to work with the artist he loves to create something new. You can too. Look for great artists and study their work. Don't worry about copying or being overtly influenced. There is nothing original in art, just new fusions of pre-existing work. Guillermo Del Toro's work is fusions of contemporary and classic artists. The Watcher is a fusion of Barlowe's Inferno, Giger's Alien, and a made for TV special grim reaper.<br />
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I started a pintrest page with some cool art by some of my favorite artists. <a href="http://www.pinterest.com/devilschariot/beauty-in-the-darkness/" target="_blank">Check out Beauty in the Darkness on pinterest</a>.<br />
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<br />Devils Chariothttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14326719836170942733noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2968422911072972858.post-11503242785183111522013-08-26T21:39:00.001-07:002014-02-09T14:40:50.302-08:00Old time coffin shapes template<h5 class="uiStreamMessage userContentWrapper" data-ft="{"type":1,"tn":"K"}">
<span class="messageBody"><span class="userContent">I
found some tombstone shapes that someone had laid out to fit as many
shapes and sizes on a single 4x8 sheet of foamboard. The originals were
drawings on graph paper and photographed with a a cellphone. I corrected
the distortion in photoshop then re-drew them as vectors. I thought I'd
put up here for anyone that wants them. If the original author wants
credit just contact me I'll add your name to the files.</span></span></h5>
<h5 class="uiStreamMessage userContentWrapper" data-ft="{"type":1,"tn":"K"}">
<span class="messageBody"><span class="userContent">Thanks to Jeff from hauntedyards.com for creating this. You can find his <a href="http://www.hauntedyards.com/home/quick-and-dirty-tombstones" target="_blank">tombstone how-to here</a>.</span></span></h5>
<h5 class="uiStreamMessage userContentWrapper" data-ft="{"type":1,"tn":"K"}">
<span class="messageBody"><span class="userContent"><a href="https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/32487293/tombstone%20shapes.pdf" rel="nofollow">Download the PDF - Click here.</a></span></span></h5>
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<span class="messageBody"><span class="userContent"></span></span><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj7PVRLA8dUrSFiALC8xJ3qINHNNAd3IuFFv-M6oZZQqvqNQatGtIn8tKhwMzE5yIqANPxwkc3YPVpOtINLv0ppBJ2jhEfdoYPQNtmTUqmUBzSXs7-4-ie29U7t5znmfm2J59MjDdFoIt4/s1600/Screen+shot+2013-08-26+at+9.36.02+PM.png" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj7PVRLA8dUrSFiALC8xJ3qINHNNAd3IuFFv-M6oZZQqvqNQatGtIn8tKhwMzE5yIqANPxwkc3YPVpOtINLv0ppBJ2jhEfdoYPQNtmTUqmUBzSXs7-4-ie29U7t5znmfm2J59MjDdFoIt4/s320/Screen+shot+2013-08-26+at+9.36.02+PM.png" height="320" width="281" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj7PVRLA8dUrSFiALC8xJ3qINHNNAd3IuFFv-M6oZZQqvqNQatGtIn8tKhwMzE5yIqANPxwkc3YPVpOtINLv0ppBJ2jhEfdoYPQNtmTUqmUBzSXs7-4-ie29U7t5znmfm2J59MjDdFoIt4/s1600/Screen+shot+2013-08-26+at+9.36.02+PM.png" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"> </a><span class="messageBody"><span class="userContent"> </span></span></h5>
Devils Chariothttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14326719836170942733noreply@blogger.com7tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2968422911072972858.post-24039357650481398372013-07-11T22:36:00.000-07:002013-07-11T22:36:40.448-07:00WIPsI'm going to start posting Works in Progress. I have found that seeing other artist work in progress is very revealing about how they work and think. I'm not promising it's awesome but if it helps one person it worth it. This blog exists to repay the debt I owe to other haunters and monster makers who posted their how-to and progress images online.<br />
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The Wraiths: These are the going to be the grave robbing Wraiths in the new haunt theme this year. The visual tie in I am working towards in the haunt is the relationship between birds and the way witches look with their long beaks and thin claw like hands. This is something I am trying to work out with sculpture instead of sketches.<br />
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The Watchers: This was just a spontaneous sculpt the first time I did it. I was making a prop that points you the right direction to exit my haunt but I didn't want him to look to much like the the main character of the haunt that he will be next to. I ground off the nose the eyebrows and just started putting clay over the face, I liked the way it looks so I started to make some more faceless creatures.<br />
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<br />Devils Chariothttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14326719836170942733noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2968422911072972858.post-20619549612759783032013-07-11T21:12:00.000-07:002013-07-11T21:13:31.481-07:00The Watcher <div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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I haven't been on the forum much in the last year or two because I
haven't been building props for my haunt. I have been building sets or
fixing old props or helping others with their props which always needs to get
done.<br />
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In keeping with our plans to do a new theme every three years it is time
for me to build all new props and sets. This is the first prop I
finished so far this year. He has been built to point people the right
direction when they get to our porch as many people turn right and walk
into the house on accident.<br />
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The video shows him moving and at the end shows the slider crank mechanism that actuates his arm.<br />
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If you want a how-to let me know in the comments and I'll get it on the to-do list. Devils Chariothttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14326719836170942733noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2968422911072972858.post-12825502653179703022013-07-11T21:02:00.000-07:002013-07-11T21:02:56.763-07:00Skull Mold - Silicone Brush On MoldI shot this a couple years ago while I was making another skull mold. It sat around unedited for so long because I realized a few things about myself. First I don't really like editing video. Secondly I don't like typing - arrrgghhh it burns! Thirdly I guess I don't really like blogging. I mean not enough to post everyday like some of you guys.<br />
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This is the entry level mold you should be attempting if you want to get into casting skulls for your haunting needs. It's cheaper than a jacket/matrix mold and much easier to build. It's gonna cost you about $80 total plus the casting material but you get 40+ castings from it and learn something new.<br />
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These are two long videos but they show you every step. I always find it helpful to see the whole process myself.<br />
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If you have questions post them in comments and I'll answer them.<br />
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Part 1:<br />
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Part 2:<br />
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<br />Devils Chariothttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14326719836170942733noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2968422911072972858.post-5517478694325616862011-10-11T23:56:00.000-07:002011-10-11T23:57:41.891-07:00Cauldron Creep 2.0<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6151/6233163517_07473beed6_z.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><br />
</a><a href="http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6151/6233163517_07473beed6_b.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="266" src="http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6151/6233163517_07473beed6_b.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>Devils Chariothttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14326719836170942733noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2968422911072972858.post-58181004285349292452011-10-10T21:28:00.000-07:002011-10-10T21:28:40.651-07:00Like a red moon rising in the dark Autumn night, The Boogey Man cometh..I am sick as a dog but I can't wait until tomorrow to show you this.<br />
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Cauldron Creep has been reborn. He ships tomorrow.<br />
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More pics tomorrow.Devils Chariothttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14326719836170942733noreply@blogger.com5tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2968422911072972858.post-88685460056280716072011-07-15T19:42:00.000-07:002011-07-15T19:42:13.551-07:00Cauldron Creep 2.0 - The Boogey Man Cometh<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6006/5941858032_fa5fc5ac78.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6006/5941858032_fa5fc5ac78.jpg" /></a></div>Devils Chariothttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14326719836170942733noreply@blogger.com8tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2968422911072972858.post-28392011441591558922011-07-12T23:58:00.000-07:002011-07-12T23:58:06.235-07:00Cauldron Creep 2.0<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3247/3000535586_2381deb1de.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3247/3000535586_2381deb1de.jpg" width="213" /></a></div><br />
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After three years of wear, tear, and disrepair Cauldron Creep is getting rebuilt. In honor of the original creep I tore him limb from limb and measured each part of him. I am using the same 1/2" PVC frame, same dimensions, and the same motors. The improvements include updating the mechanism for his head movement into a more compact design, new skull mold, 2-part urethane foam bones cloned from a blucky, a new cauldron, new ribs, new hunch back design, and a Pacemaker controller from MonsterGuts.<br />
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I'll be posting some sneak peaks and build photos on here over the next few weeks. This project will generate more mold making tutorials (which have been put on hold by OT at work and building this guy). At the end I'll have three Cauldron Creeps. One for me, one for a client, and one for I dunno. Maybe he'll be for sale, maybe a fundraiser, maybe you can win him, maybe he'll be donated but either of those will see at least 50% of the proceeds go to charity.<br />
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Also there will be a definitive cauldron creep how-to with exact measurements, parts list, and a video. I am thinking of releasing this as a DVD for $15 and also as a kit with DVD (price to be determined). If you like either of these ideas please comment. Our haunt has fallen on hard times and due to lack of funding and we will not have much of an upgrade from last year's haunt. If you know our haunt then you know we'll work 6 months making everything from scratch to blow your socks off.<br />
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Here is a little peek at what I have got going so far:<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6058/5912880738_9c46af1055.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6058/5912880738_9c46af1055.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br />
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Keep an eye on this blog because the Cauldron Creep 2.0 is going to be awesome.<br />
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Try his for your next drink and think: <a href="http://www.lagunitas.com/beers/undercover.html">Lagunitas Undercover Investigation Shut Down Ale </a>Devils Chariothttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14326719836170942733noreply@blogger.com6tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2968422911072972858.post-15460170996503329082011-05-09T19:47:00.000-07:002011-05-09T19:47:59.062-07:00Mold-Making Theory: Is It Hard or Is It Soft?The first step in any mold-making project is to consider what you want your cast item to be used for. Do you want a solid skull as a base for building up a zombie face with clay and maché? Maybe you want a squishy dismembered hand that looks and feels lifelike. You have to consider what you want your casting to be. You will have to build your mold to the casting material you want to use. This is not absolute, but generally you won't be able to make a hard casting and a soft casting from the same mold. There are ways to try to game the system, but they are compromises to quality and/or ease of use.<br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: lime; font-size: large;"><u>Hard molds make soft castings ∞ Soft molds make hard castings</u></span><br />
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If you want to make a hard, bone-like skull, you will need a soft, flesh-like mold. Inversely, if you want to make a soft, flesh-like hand, you will need to make a hard mold.<br />
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Why?<br />
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Friction. Why does friction matter?<br />
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When you pour casting material into a mold, you are making a copy of that mold right down to the molecular level. The casting material and the mold have no space between them. If you hadn't used a release agent, they might have even fused together chemically to become one piece.<br />
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These parts want to hold onto each other. Imagine you are climbing a rock wall and your hand melts to perfectly fit and grab each rock as you grab it. The mold has the perfect grip on the casting and will not let go if they are made of materials that are too similar in density. The reason you use a hard mold for a soft casting and a soft mold for a hard casting is so that one can give. You need that give to be able to work the casting free from the mold—to peel it away or wiggle it free.<br />
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Like I said earlier, there are ways to try to game the system. You could use a "soft" mold that is still harder than the material used for casting. However, as their <a href="http://www.smooth-on.com/-Documents-Duromet/c0_1351_1370/index.html">shore hardness</a> gets closer to one another, it will be hard to separate the casting from the mold without either getting a friction lock or damaging the mold or casting while trying to pry a casting out of a mold so soft you can't get any real leverage to pry the two apart.<br />
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Another solution is to increase the complexity of the mold by making extra parts. Instead of having two halves you could have three sections. Or you can break down the original item into smaller pieces and make a series of smaller more simplified molds. While this may solve one problem, it creates others. It slows down your production and your castings now require assembly.<br />
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In the next installment of Mold Theory I'll talk about mold making materials that work best for haunting.Devils Chariothttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14326719836170942733noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2968422911072972858.post-11143213330125900722011-05-09T16:17:00.000-07:002011-05-09T16:17:59.758-07:00I can only promise you 2.<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2173/5705297896_13da35df68.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="213" src="http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2173/5705297896_13da35df68.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br />
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I am the laziest blogger ever. It's ok because I am just using this free blog as a free webpage. I'm gaming the system. I'm stealing bread from Google's table and I am ok with that. I don't post very often. I don't think of this as a news site, but as a depository. A library of my How-To contributions to home haunting.<br />
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So let's just get right to it. Last year I promised all kinds of how-tos and I didn't deliver. I changed themes on my haunt and it took way more work than I estimated. I did get up two how-tos but so what? Who cares?<br />
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So. I am going to be frugal in my promises this year and say I only have two. Two how-tos. They have been filmed. One is 95% done and one needs editing and voiceovers. If I do three I'll feel awesome.<br />
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The first how-tos are both about mold making. One is pretty elaborate. So much so that instead of making it 20 pages long I am going to preface it with some mold making theory. Watch for these to start rolling out in the next day or so.<br />
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I'm decompressing from the National Haunters Convention right now. I'll see ya soon.<br />
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- DCDevils Chariothttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14326719836170942733noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2968422911072972858.post-28138702821520045882010-09-20T12:47:00.000-07:002010-09-20T12:47:50.829-07:00Halloween Forum Secret Reaper Gift has Shipped.<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4126/5008550635_9913a71f20.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="239" src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4126/5008550635_9913a71f20.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>Devils Chariothttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14326719836170942733noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2968422911072972858.post-36697425673373586242010-05-07T12:57:00.001-07:002010-06-05T11:03:42.775-07:00Sculpting the Dead Mouth<p><span style="font-family: 'Lucida Grande';">This is the second in a series of videos showing how I make my corpse heads. In this video I will focus on making the mouth of a dried out corpse. I used the same tools and material as the first video. If you need more details on tools, just go back and watch "<a href="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cfT3vrdVsc0">Sculpting the Dead Eye</a>". Hope you enjoy this one.</span></p><p><object width="500" height="315"><param name="movie" value="http://www.youtube.com/v/31mia5ZgYjg&hl=en_US&fs=1&color1=0xe1600f&color2=0xfebd01&border=1"></param><param name="allowFullScreen" value="true"></param><param name="allowscriptaccess" value="always"></param><embed src="http://www.youtube.com/v/31mia5ZgYjg&hl=en_US&fs=1&color1=0xe1600f&color2=0xfebd01&border=1" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" allowscriptaccess="always" allowfullscreen="true" width="500" height="315"></embed></object>Devils Chariothttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14326719836170942733noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2968422911072972858.post-21725836478810052652010-02-04T16:20:00.001-08:002010-02-04T16:22:24.671-08:00Sculpting the Dead EyeThis is the first in a series of videos showing how I make my corpse heads. Each video will focus on one small detail or aspect. This should make it easy to absorb the techniques more easily and keep the videos a lot shorter. I'll cover making undead lips, rotten ears, shriveled noses, and gross out skin, but the first one is sculpting the eye sockets of the dead.
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Devils Chariothttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14326719836170942733noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2968422911072972858.post-35283210063367185932010-01-25T17:59:00.001-08:002010-01-26T23:36:18.366-08:002010 - A New Year's Resolution
To keep this blog interesting, make it a better resource for halloween prop makers, and to make the posts more frequent I am going to make a few changes this year:
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<strong style="color: rgb(255, 153, 0); font-weight: normal; font-style: italic;">Smaller How-To's</strong>
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I am going to make smaller How-To's that are easier to absorb. Usually I make a how-to after a prop is done, but since I work on multiple props at a time, it can be months until something is finished. These smaller How-To's will focus on one small technique that will be easy to learn and apply to your next prop. For example, how to make muscle tissue, how to sculpt sunken looking eyes, or wrinkled lips.
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<strong style="color: rgb(255, 153, 0); font-weight: normal; font-style: italic;">Material How-To's</strong>
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I'll be doing some how-to's on using different materials than you might be used to when it comes to prop building, or maybe you've wanted to try them out, but don't know enough about them. I love to fool around with new materials, so when I find something good, I'll post it.
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<strong style="color: rgb(255, 153, 0); font-weight: normal; font-style: italic;">Painting How-To's</strong>
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I'll be doing some painting tutorials where I'll paint one piece from start to finish, and show the techniques used up close and in detail, and show how washing, dry brushing, layering, and detail work can all come together into a fast and easy workflow you can use.
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<strong style="color: rgb(255, 153, 0); font-weight: normal; font-style: italic;">Photography How-To's</strong>
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I'll also have a how-to light and photograph your props article finished before next halloween to help you document all your hard work on that big night. I'll also post a few articles about setting up your camera and processing your digital images.
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<strong style="color: rgb(255, 153, 0); font-weight: normal; font-style: italic;">ETc.</strong>
<BR>I'll also be posting about some more random stuff. I'll post about art and movies that have inspired me, props I dig, and haunt product reviews, ya know etc.!Devils Chariothttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14326719836170942733noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2968422911072972858.post-33146475760708004312009-12-02T21:41:00.001-08:002009-12-02T21:46:02.123-08:00Wacky Zombie - Part 3. Paper Mache and Corpsing<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/9094462@N07/3802097299" title="View 'I'm ALMOST done....just a spot here' on Flickr.com"><img border="0" width="375" alt="I'm ALMOST done....just a spot here" src="http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2462/3802097299_aca885d10b.jpg" height="500"/></a>
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FInally to the good part!!! Well almost. Painting is my favorite part, but paper mache means your almost done!
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This corpse has a few special corpsing techniques, since it need to be grodey but still needs to be flexible, since this guy is meant to be posable. The and joints in his legs can be restricted or covered but still need to be sturdy. So lets get into it!
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<b><span style="color: lime;">Mr. Chicken's Mache Technique</span></b>
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I heard from Mr. Chicken that he had built one of his ground breakers using paper towels and house paint. I had also heard someone mention in a thread or chat about using blue shop towels for mache. I need a very tough skin for this posable guy. So I have used the very tough and smooth blue shop towels and laytex exterior house paint. The paint I got from various sources; Biglots, "oops" paint form the hardware store, and salvaged from abadandoned properties. The glossier the better, as this makes it stickier and gives it a tougher finish.
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Just a reminder this where we started:<BR><BR>
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/9094462@N07/3750458807" title="View 'He's got legs!!!!' on Flickr.com"><img border="0" width="375" alt="He's got legs!!!!" src="http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2531/3750458807_82b077ec61.jpg" height="500"/></a>
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I have just started the mache here. I am using full sheets at a time. I folder each piece into fourths, and then tear of the corners until they are round. This makes the seams disappear easier. Remember to wear gloves as this gets very messy. Then I dunk the paper into the bucket of paint and wring it out. I set it onto the frame very loose. THe looser it is the more wrinkles you can get. Once it is pushed down on the frame work, I push it around a bit, this brings out the wrinkles. The inverse of this is also true, the tighter you pull the mache across the frame work, the less winkles you get, and minimize the handling until it dries. By mixing these two techniques you can get a all kinds of dried out skin looks. Too many wrinkles and it will look like a sharpe'. Not enough and it will look like a porpise.
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I used some great stuff to bulk out his pelvis here, in case you were wondering what that was.
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<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/9094462@N07/3759908983" title="View 'Foamy groin' on Flickr.com"><img border="0" width="500" alt="Foamy groin" src="http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2570/3759908983_d175d4aaca.jpg" height="375"/></a>
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<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/9094462@N07/3760708486" title="View 'Mr.Chicken style mache over forearm' on Flickr.com"><img border="0" width="500" alt="Mr.Chicken style mache over forearm" src="http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2543/3760708486_eb013a57f8.jpg" height="375"/></a>
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<b><span style="color: lime;">Flexible Corpsing</span></b>
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I developed this technique from the common "Latex and Cheesecloth" corpsing technique. I used soft t-shirt cotton rags I bought at the auto parts store and then soaked them in latex. Like the blue shop towels I folded them into fourths and cut off the edge to break up the hard lines. While still folded, I pinched little bits of cloth between my fingers and snipped them off. This is just like making a snowflake out of paper, only we want it to be irregular, so don't do this too much. Then I unfolded the rag and snipped out a few more holes, and poked in some holes with the scissors. I then soaked it in mold making (thick) latex. I smeared a little latex on the mache and then "glued" on the piece of cloth. You can see here how it covers the moving joint, and thanks to the holes, you can access the nut to re-position the leg.
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<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/9094462@N07/3779922890" title="View 'Spawn of articulation joint' on Flickr.com"><img border="0" width="500" alt="Spawn of articulation joint" src="http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3502/3779922890_5d2ef6f567.jpg" height="375"/></a>
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<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/9094462@N07/3779924742" title="View 'Daddy look, I'm a torso!' on Flickr.com"><img border="0" width="500" alt="Daddy look, I'm a torso!" src="http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2617/3779924742_24685213a8.jpg" height="375"/></a>
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<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/9094462@N07/3759924289" title="View 'latex and t-shirt material' on Flickr.com"><img border="0" width="500" alt="latex and t-shirt material" src="http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3524/3759924289_17ed8c0d31.jpg" height="375"/></a>
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I also used the cheesecloth and latex technique to add some grosser corpsing.
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<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/9094462@N07/3779108163" title="View 'Gauze, Latex, great stuff' on Flickr.com"><img border="0" width="375" alt="Gauze, Latex, great stuff" src="http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2652/3779108163_299677ff84.jpg" height="500"/></a>
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Here you can see I have smeared Great Stuff randomly around the corpse to pull the whole thing together and add some detail. The bubbles it forms will help blend the cotton rags, the paper mache, and the cheesecloth.
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<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/9094462@N07/3782807953" title="View 'I'm done' on Flickr.com"><img border="0" width="375" alt="I'm done" src="http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3595/3782807953_c5b14a1fe4.jpg" height="500"/></a>
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Once all the mache, latex, and great stuff have dried he got a coat of grey primer, which will blend all grays and the whites and yellow (latex) together, and give a strong even base for painting.Devils Chariothttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14326719836170942733noreply@blogger.com8tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2968422911072972858.post-83444202762401246522009-12-02T15:30:00.001-08:002009-12-02T15:36:46.016-08:00Wacky Zombie - Part 2. Fabricating a Body from Scratch
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/9094462@N07/3802921822" title="View 'Like all creations they turn on their creators' on Flickr.com"><img border="0" width="375" alt="Like all creations they turn on their creators" src="http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3505/3802921822_0480b369fd.jpg" height="500"/>
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<strong style="color: rgb(255, 153, 0); font-weight: normal; font-style: italic;">(as someone pointed out, he's got em by the neck, and I have him by the balls.)</strong>
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I built this corpse as part of a trade with the infamous Mr. Chicken in 2009. I made this body from scratch since I needed to fit some specs for the Chicken. It needed marionette arms and posable legs. I used arms like I had made for Cauldron Creep, and then I borrowed <a href="http://www.hauntforum.com/showthread.php?t=17073">a great idea </a>from <a href="http://www.hauntforum.com/member.php?u=996">Beelce</a>, one the net's brilliant haunters. More about that in a bit.
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<span style="font-weight: bold; color: rgb(51, 255, 51);">The Armature</span><BR>
If you have been haunting or even interested in haunting your yard for a year or so, you probably have heard of or come across the <a href="http://Zombietronix.com/calculator_biped.php">zombietronix skeleton calculator.</a> It is a great free tool and I use it all the time. It tells you what length to cut PVC to represent different bones, and tells you how much pipe and how many fittings you need to make your own pvc skeleton armature.
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<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/9094462@N07/4153145493" title="View 'ZOMBIETRONIX' on Flickr.com"><img border="0" width="468" alt="ZOMBIETRONIX" src="http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2762/4153145493_4c45eb1c02.jpg" height="500"/></a>
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I started here with the general dimensions of the corpse, I put in a value for an average height of 5'9. I measured out the pieces of the 1/2" PVC and labeled each section so I would remember what they were once it was all cut up. I used a PVC cutter to make quick work of the pipe.
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<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/9094462@N07/3692729792" title="View 'IMG_0309' on Flickr.com"><img border="0" width="375" alt="IMG_0309" src="http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2655/3692729792_eca27523ba.jpg" height="500"/></a>
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I started forming the spine first. I set the spine segment with the pelvis and shoulders attached so I could grip it in the vise. I used a heatgun to slowly heat up the PVC in broad sections where I wanted the pipe to bend smoothly. You can tell if you overheating a small area as it will quickly discolor to a brownish green and start to bubble. Keep making long slow passes on each side of the pipe and push gently with your other hand, the pipe should start to give slowly. You want to heat it up just enough to bend. Overheating it means you have to wait longer for the pipe to cool and you'll have to stand there holding it in the shape you want even longer until it cools. I have found a way to "quench" the pipe. I used a small towel soaked with cold water and rub it along the pipe gently (so I don't deform the now soft pipe). This works very well and allows you to work more quickly.
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<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/9094462@N07/3692731954" title="View 'IMG_0310' on Flickr.com"><img border="0" width="375" alt="IMG_0310" src="http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2612/3692731954_38c3b65982.jpg" height="500"/></a>
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Then I assembled the rest of the pieces. Now stop here for a second and go read <a href="http://www.hauntforum.com/showthread.php?t=17073">Beelce's Spawn of Articulation how-to</a>. I forgot to shoot pics of how I made the legs, but I see no reason to show his how-to as my own. I made did it a bit differently than he did, I used the heatgun I had, and the vise to clamp down the ends. Seriously, go read Beelce's how-to and comeback!
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<span style="font-weight: bold; color: rgb(51, 255, 51);">The Ribcage</span><BR>
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<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/9094462@N07/3745295600" title="View 'Sternum and support' on Flickr.com"><img border="0" width="500" alt="Sternum and support" src="http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3421/3745295600_fe27a1a943.jpg" height="375"/></a>
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I made a support arch to put the sternum on and hold the ribs in place. I am using newspaper ribs, and I don't want them to get crushed. The support is attached to the PVC with some hot glue, and the sternum piece (with teeth) is hot glued to the support arch. I used some duct tape here and there just for added strength.
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<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/9094462@N07/3744502155" title="View 'sternum assembled' on Flickr.com"><img border="0" width="500" alt="sternum assembled" src="http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3435/3744502155_dae12279d5.jpg" height="375"/></a>
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Look here and notice that I have taken the PVC of the shoulders and bend it with a heatgun. They looked too broad and unnatural. The measurements you get from the Zombietronix calculator represent the shoulders of the skeleton that include the collar bone, shoulder blade, and the top of the arm bone in an upright and correct posture. The shoulder piece should be cut shorter as it only needs to represent the shoulder blade and collar bone. I found in making 4 more corpses after this one that they should be quit short, to give the right look when making a corpse. The withering of the body collapses the stature of the skeleton, so the arms come in more at the shoulder.
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<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/9094462@N07/3744507585" title="View 'attaching the ribs' on Flickr.com"><img border="0" width="500" alt="attaching the ribs" src="http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2633/3744507585_569bfb2402.jpg" height="375"/></a>
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You'll notice I cut teeth into the sternum piece so that newspaper ribs (just newspaper rolled up into a tube and the ends cut off) would slide over them. This step is not needed, just make sure you have the same number of ribs on each side. Another tip here is as you are going, make two of each of these cardboard parts like the sternum, the support, shoulder blades, etc. and save the other one as a pattern, since once you have a full sized corpse, you'll want another and another.
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<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/9094462@N07/3745306792" title="View 'rib progress' on Flickr.com"><img border="0" width="500" alt="rib progress" src="http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2456/3745306792_40ce77a706.jpg" height="375"/></a>
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Here you can see I have taped up the ribs as I go. I have hot glued them on and then added tape to hold them in place as the glue cools and to reinforce them. I will attach all of them to the sternum first before I start wrapping them around to the spine and attaching them.
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<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/9094462@N07/3744513341" title="View 'ribs half way' on Flickr.com"><img border="0" width="500" alt="ribs half way" src="http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2534/3744513341_ce56f4b371.jpg" height="375"/></a>
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I have bent the ribs around to the back and hot glued them and duct taped them in place. I sized each rib as I went, just eyeballing the distance and shape. I have made two changes to how I do ribs since this projects. I now run a piece of bendable wire thru each rib so that it will hold it's shape. That makes this step easier, and removes the need for the support inside the sternum. I also have a chart I made from measuring a bucky's ribcage, and I drew a chart for which rib is which length. When I roll the newspaper I write the rib number on the rolled paper and cut it to length. Just a quick diversion to show how these better ribs go together.
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<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/9094462@N07/3914340127" title="View 'IMG_0879' on Flickr.com"><img border="0" width="500" alt="IMG_0879" src="http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2514/3914340127_940435eec7.jpg" height="375"/></a>
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Roll some newspaper and cut it to length. You can see here the ribs in their component pieces, finished rib, tube of newspaper, and wire with hooked ends.
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<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/9094462@N07/3914341187" title="View 'IMG_0880' on Flickr.com"><img border="0" width="500" alt="IMG_0880" src="http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2433/3914341187_c3936a7fd9.jpg" height="375"/></a>
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Run the wire thru the tube of newspaper. Use some needle nose pliers to bend the end of the wire. This keeps the paper from sliding too much but mostly keeps sharp pointy wires from stabbing you or poking thru the rib later in construction.
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<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/9094462@N07/3914343205" title="View 'IMG_0882' on Flickr.com"><img border="0" width="500" alt="IMG_0882" src="http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2613/3914343205_51db40d93e.jpg" height="375"/></a>
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Bend the wire end again with e paper. This just helps to make the end of the rib studier. You don't want it to tear off after you have glued it.
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<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/9094462@N07/3915128966" title="View 'IMG_0883' on Flickr.com"><img border="0" width="500" alt="IMG_0883" src="http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3439/3915128966_4416787437.jpg" height="375"/></a>
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Then wrap the end in duct tape. This will make it much more durable during the hot gluing it to the sternum.
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Repeat these steps on each end of the ribs.
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<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/9094462@N07/3744520407" title="View 'rib cage' on Flickr.com"><img border="0" width="500" alt="rib cage" src="http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2656/3744520407_8b4c059f36.jpg" height="375"/></a>
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Once all the ribs are on, I added a collar bone of rolled up newspaper. You might think this is a "meta" detail, but it provides a support later for the paper mache so that the top of the chest cavity doesn't look like a big caved in hole.
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<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/9094462@N07/3744517985" title="View 'shoulder blades' on Flickr.com"><img border="0" width="500" alt="shoulder blades" src="http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3519/3744517985_52db410db0.jpg" height="375"/></a>
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I made some shoulder blades out of cardboard and hot glue and duct taped them on. These fill out the back areas so there aren't any big empty holes back there either.
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<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/9094462@N07/3748475334" title="View 'maquette arms' on Flickr.com"><img border="0" width="375" alt="maquette arms" src="http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2626/3748475334_2d270c81e4.jpg" height="500"/></a>
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<span style="font-weight: bold; color: rgb(51, 255, 51);">The Limbs</span><BR>
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I started bulking out the PVC arms with some aluminum foil. This gives you a better looking arm, breaking up the shape of the pipe and allowing for more realism once covered in mache. The foil is just wrapped on, and any loose spots are touched up with a spot of hot glue.
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<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/9094462@N07/3750458807" title="View 'He's got legs!!!!' on Flickr.com"><img border="0" width="375" alt="He's got legs!!!!" src="http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2531/3750458807_82b077ec61.jpg" height="500"/></a>
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I have bulked out his legs and added a cardboard pelvis.
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<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/9094462@N07/3710736036" title="View 'hot glue hand w posable armature' on Flickr.com"><img border="0" width="500" alt="hot glue hand w posable armature" src="http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2471/3710736036_ef24ccd9cb.jpg" height="375"/></a>
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I made some hands out of hot glue sticks and armature wire. I wanted them to be posable, and they were but I don't like this solution. They were hard to paint and hard to pose. I made a new hand design based on a an idea from BoneDancer.
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<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/9094462@N07/3915142550" title="View 'IMG_0897' on Flickr.com"><img border="0" width="375" alt="IMG_0897" src="http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3527/3915142550_7ace941b53.jpg" height="500"/></a>
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I cut out a palm from cardboard. I measured out some fingers from cheap ($.007 a foot) poly vinyl tubing using a jig I had made which was modeled off a real hand. I then ran some wire thru them. I bent the end around the tube at the fingertips and then I filled the end of the finger with hotglue to set it. I bent the other end of the wire into little semi-circles and hot glued those to the cardboard palm.
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<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/9094462@N07/3914359041" title="View 'IMG_0898' on Flickr.com"><img border="0" width="500" alt="IMG_0898" src="http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2654/3914359041_6600f524b5.jpg" height="375"/></a>
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I closed the hand with a matching piece of cardboard and hot glue the whole thing shut. Here you can see the jig.
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<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/9094462@N07/3915144510" title="View 'IMG_0899' on Flickr.com"><img border="0" width="500" alt="IMG_0899" src="http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3511/3915144510_2eddf76d5b.jpg" height="375"/></a>
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Then I used rolled up aluminum foil to bulk out the back of the hand. I have even made little tips for the fingers with little foil bits shaped into cones. That looks great when paper mached.
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<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/9094462@N07/3914361281" title="View 'IMG_0900' on Flickr.com"><img border="0" width="500" alt="IMG_0900" src="http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2612/3914361281_3a803f6d5d.jpg" height="375"/></a>
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Then to attach the hand I made a loop of wire with one end like a fork, and after covering the fork end with hot glue, I slid it into the little tubes of the corrugated cardboard.
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<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/9094462@N07/3915147846" title="View 'IMG_0902' on Flickr.com"><img border="0" width="500" alt="IMG_0902" src="http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2473/3915147846_e72fd4cf14.jpg" height="375"/></a>
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Then I bulked it up with aluminum foil to look like the wrist bones. The loop slides into the PVC arm and is secured with a squirt of GreatStuff expanding foam. For Mr. Chicken's corpse I just attached the hands to the arms with a small loop of string (marionette style, remember?)
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<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/9094462@N07/3779913462" title="View 'Simple feet' on Flickr.com"><img border="0" width="500" alt="Simple feet" src="http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3457/3779913462_f3d377ca3b.jpg" height="375"/></a>
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The feet are made in a similar manner but are much more simple to construct.
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<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/9094462@N07/3779914516" title="View 'Bulked up feet' on Flickr.com"><img border="0" width="500" alt="Bulked up feet" src="http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2496/3779914516_63e25ecf10.jpg" height="375"/></a>
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<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/9094462@N07/3783615392" title="View '...and this little piggy went to the graveyard...' on Flickr.com"><img border="0" width="375" alt="...and this little piggy went to the graveyard..." src="http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2527/3783615392_d31f80254c.jpg" height="500"/></a>
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After the Mache I sculpted toes with some epoxy clay.
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<strong style="color: rgb(255, 153, 0); font-weight: normal; font-style: italic;">In the next segment I'll cover the paper mache and corpsing techniques I used on this guy.
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Devils Chariothttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14326719836170942733noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2968422911072972858.post-74081914527742212682009-11-06T15:04:00.001-08:002009-11-06T15:10:18.444-08:00Carver Creep - 3 Axis Skull<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/9094462@N07/4069795947" title="View 'Carver Creep' on Flickr.com"><img src="http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2726/4069795947_54a3e8e2d0.jpg" alt="Carver Creep" border="0" width="333" height="500" /></a>
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Say Hello to Carver Creep. An iteration of last year 's alliterated hero, Cauldron Creep. Yep, these guys work together. Hey, they are even related! Carver stacks em up, and the Cauldron boils em down.
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Carver Creep is a an exercise in set building more than anything. He is essentially a Bucky skeleton with a GYS 3 axis Lindberg Skull kit. The mount I made so that the can be hunched over but not talk straight down into the table is the only trick thing going on here.
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The Carver Creep set consist of a victim skull whose face has been removed and his tongue cut out and cut up like sashimi, a bowl full of shrunken heads, a stack of skulls under his table, an altar, and a drying rack for skinned faces. He also has a set of custom cutlery made from burning wood, flesh, and steel.
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Now I'm not a technical guy in anyway, I can learn the stuff but I usually break it or ruin the first one of whatever my first attempt. At $200 bucks a kit, I decided to get some help. Through old fashioned bartering I entered into a trade with the tack smart and all around good guy Mr. Chicken. I made him a full on zombie to fit a sketch he had for a prop he wanted to build this year, and he assembled and programmed the skull to a soundtrack I made and a confusing tape of me trying to show him how the head should turn and look around as he talks. When I got the head back I installed the LED eyes and monsterguts.com eyeball blanks, closed up the head and filled the seam, except a screw driver sized hole in the back, so I can always pop him open if I need to.
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I painted the whole thing with White Primer, then washed it down with Raw Umber and Matte Medium. Over that I used Wildfire White UV paint, which glows insanely bright, and is transparent under white light. I made some teeth from Fimo Translucent clay (the FIMO brand glows under black light).
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<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/9094462@N07/4073235691" title="View 'Carver Creep Close-up' on Flickr.com"><img src="http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2673/4073235691_5ca90200e7.jpg" alt="Carver Creep Close-up" border="0" width="333" height="500" /></a>
<BR><strong style="color: rgb(255, 153, 0); font-weight: normal; font-style: italic;">(look! its seamless, mmm so nice!)</strong>
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<span style="font-weight: bold; color: rgb(51, 255, 51);">The Victim Skull</span><BR>
I made this guy from one of the casts I made from my new mold I made from a modified Lindberg skull ( I drilled out the tooth pegs to look like real tooth sockets and added texture to the skull's forehead). The eyes are the Hong Kong eyes I got on Ebay with some Magic Sculpt Epoxy Clay for the muscles. The skin is Creative paperclay, since I find that easy to texture subtly. I made the ears out of Sculpey Firm. His teeth are the Sculpey Translucent, which is not UV reactive. His tongue and skinned face are also Sculpey.
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<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/9094462@N07/4070557494" title="View 'Carver Creep's Victim' on Flickr.com"><img src="http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2484/4070557494_397c29fe59.jpg" alt="Carver Creep's Victim" border="0" width="500" height="333" /></a>
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<span style="font-weight: bold; color: rgb(51, 255, 51);">Tools of the Trade</span><BR>
I need to shoot these under a black light so you can see the burning ember effect, but this shot shows the metal nicely. These are tree roots I got at Castaic Lake. They are kinda like driftwood, but way more textured. I made the blades from sheet styrene which is the same plastic used on model kits (you can get it at a good hobby shop). I attached them with some plumber's epoxy then covered that with detailed muscle like tissues made from Magic Sculpt. The bone needle is all Magic Sculpt.
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<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/9094462@N07/4053965025" title="View 'Tools of the Trade' on Flickr.com"><img src="http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2559/4053965025_88a64fdee7.jpg" alt="Tools of the Trade" border="0" width="375" height="500" /></a>
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<span style="font-weight: bold; color: rgb(51, 255, 51);">Tiny Heads</span><BR>
I made these guys as an experiment with different combinations of Super Sculpy 3, Fimo, and Super Sculpey Firm. I tried to make different characters with each one. These are painted with eh Craft Smart brand of paints from Michael's.
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<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/9094462@N07/4069796445" title="View 'Bowl of Shrunken Heads' on Flickr.com"><img src="http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3526/4069796445_4d6ffa3916.jpg" alt="Bowl of Shrunken Heads" border="0" width="500" height="333" /></a>
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<span style="font-weight: bold; color: rgb(51, 255, 51);">Skull Pile</span><BR>
These are some full and half skulls casting I made form the same mold of the modified Lindberg skull. I made Fimo teeth and painted them with Wildfire white. These are cast in SmoothOn's Foam-It 5 which makes a very durable foam skull that can be handled roughly and dropped with little or no damage.
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<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/9094462@N07/4069798913" title="View 'Carver's Pile of Skulls' on Flickr.com"><img src="http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2739/4069798913_0b837cb9b2.jpg" alt="Carver's Pile of Skulls" border="0" width="500" height="333" /></a>
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<span style="font-weight: bold; color: rgb(51, 255, 51);">The Altar</span><BR>
The altar is built around a giant root I brought back from the lake. I covered it with resin fetal skulls I made from a mold in this<a href="http://devilschariot.blogspot.com/2009/08/2-part-silicone-mold-how-to.html"> how-to</a>. I surrounded the Altar with candle made from PVC, Hot glue, and flicker candles from the how-to in the Mitchell's <a href="http://www.howtohauntyourhouse.com/">How to Haunt your House Book</a>. (Thanks to everyone in the crew who pitched in and helped make these candle. I think everyone did at least one). I then put in some of th e cool things i have collected over the years. A monkey skull, some hark jaws, a few jawbones, a Samoan tiki, and old metal dish filled with amber stones, and some shrunken heads from the previous years, which as I look at the pictures didn't have any black light paint on them.
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<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/9094462@N07/4069795063" title="View 'Altar' on Flickr.com"><img src="http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2736/4069795063_56071354dd.jpg" alt="Altar" border="0" width="500" height="333" /></a>
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<span style="font-weight: bold; color: rgb(51, 255, 51);">The Drying Rack</span><BR>
I made this as kinda of a death mobile. A drying rack for skins and herbs. The two faces are Sculpey I laid over a cardboard skull masks from Michael's. The backs are covered in GreatStuff and painted like dried blood. I hung little bundles of plants that looked like herbs from the bottom rack. I had wanted to make ears for this to on the middle rack, but I just ran out of time. I'll finish it though, just for finishings sake.
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<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/9094462@N07/4069795625" title="View 'Skinned Face Mobile with Headshrinking Herbs' on Flickr.com"><img src="http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2681/4069795625_8861c9534f.jpg" alt="Skinned Face Mobile with Headshrinking Herbs" border="0" width="285" height="500" /></a>
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<span style="font-weight: bold; color: rgb(51, 255, 51);">The Routine</span><BR>
Here is the routine. For some reason my voice is coming thru the mix more on Youtube, but you'll get the gist. The camera is off axis from the dead zero of the skull, but its the only video that came out in focus on my new camera (need to read that manual.
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<object width="500" height="315"><param name="movie" value="http://www.youtube.com/v/mH8cLj1AVTY&hl=en&fs=1&color1=0xe1600f&color2=0xfebd01&border=1"></param><param name="allowFullScreen" value="true"></param><param name="allowscriptaccess" value="always"></param><embed src="http://www.youtube.com/v/mH8cLj1AVTY&hl=en&fs=1&color1=0xe1600f&color2=0xfebd01&border=1" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" allowscriptaccess="always" allowfullscreen="true" width="500" height="315"></embed></object>Devils Chariothttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14326719836170942733noreply@blogger.com5tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2968422911072972858.post-64964871975298048592009-10-28T20:18:00.001-07:002009-10-28T20:57:30.658-07:00Sneak Preview #4Tools of the Trade.<br />
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/9094462@N07/4053965025" title="View 'Tools of the Trade' on Flickr.com"><img alt="Tools of the Trade" border="0" height="500" src="http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2559/4053965025_88a64fdee7.jpg" width="375" /></a><br />
Sheet Styrene, wood, apoxie sculptDevils Chariothttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14326719836170942733noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2968422911072972858.post-47889396922573505252009-10-22T10:36:00.001-07:002009-10-22T10:36:49.561-07:00Sneak Preview #3Finished this guy up last night.
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/9094462@N07/4033515675" title="View 'yum yum!' on Flickr.com"><img src="http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2478/4033515675_6de8608e6c.jpg" alt="yum yum!" border="0" width="375" height="500" /></a>Devils Chariothttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14326719836170942733noreply@blogger.com2